"TINK" help...

When I turn the switch on my old Kenwood amp on I hear a little metallic "tink" sound coming from inside the amp after about a second. Last time I turned it on there was no sound coming through the speakers, then after about five minutes I heard the little metallic "tink" sound followed by the sound of the hardcore fisting video I was watching at full volume (obviously I'd left the volume up after playing with it trying to get it to work again).

Now there is no "tink", and no sound, although the light still comes on...

Does anyone know what component the little "tink" sound might come from, so that I can replace the component? I love this amp. Power supply???

Ta.

imo

Nooooooooo!

Check it out: http://www.niji.or.jp/home/k-nisi/ka-7300.htm

Or, using Babelfish: http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translate_url?doit=done&tt=url&intl=1&fr=bf-home&trurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.niji.or.jp%2Fhome%2Fk-nisi%2Fka-7300.htm&lp=ja_en&btnTrUrl=Translate

zomg

not sure if i can help there... but if it was happening as it gets powered on maybe you could trace with a multimeter from power source to where it starts to get dead?

The internets tell me that it's the speaker protection diode that isn't clicking on, and that if it takes a long time to "click" on, but then works fine, it's sometimes due to a faulty speaker protection circuit transistor rather than the diode itself. Now I have opened it up and I know where the speaker protection diode is and I have a choice of two transistors to replace...

So I can just replace them both but now I need to figure out what to replace them with, because the transistor I can read doesn't come up with much on google, and the other one is too small/obscured to read. So that could be a small problem, but perhaps if I take them out I can take them to an electronics shop and maybe they will know... Maybe...

 

oh liam   

The problem with old components is sometimes they're never made again and you have to source originals from somewhere obscure or overpriced. I've got a mate building 808s over here atm who has literally bought out all the stock of certain components from back in the day that make the '808 sound' by trawling eBay and other sources and once he finds a batch buys them all. It's funny how often there's some random electronics warehouse in Japan or what not with a dusty box full of super rare (thus very valuable) parts sitting on a shelf with a thousand other boxes of parts from obsolete devices.

He's making an absolute killing on these 808s BTW. Identical sound/operation to the real thing, built at a fraction of the cost from the original components, producers are snapping them up on eBay from him for crazy money!

That's probably what you'll have to do though Leezee, contact some of these places with the part numbers. I'll ask my mate about it for you. Post up the numbers too if you can.

Hmmm yeah well I'm not having heaps of luck finding the actual parts, but I'm kinda finding little bits of info here and there...

So far, if my theory is correct, it won't matter if I don't get the original transistors or not, so long as I get something within spec of what is on there now. Their sole purpose is to snap the contacts shut, so they won't effect the sound at all. However... (there is always a however)... If I'm wrong and that's not the problem (or if it's just a symptom) then it gets a tad more difficult.

The contacts also won't close if there are other problems with the circuitry, that's essentially their job, so maybe they are just doing what they are told. If this is the case I'll decide whether to let it beat me (in which case it's hammer time and khem will gloat) or whether to spend all my time and money on it just to prove a point...



C1681? That's the best picture I have so far, there is honestly no way to see it with the naked eye.

And the other is a C1657 -R.